Showing posts with label exhibition. Show all posts
Showing posts with label exhibition. Show all posts

Thursday, March 10, 2016

Barbie: exhibition dedicated to the iconic doll at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris

The venerable Musée des Arts Décoratifs in Paris is mounting a breathtaking exhibition dedicated to Barbie. 700 dolls in 1,500 square meters along with objects from the museum and art works from contemporary artists that try and present the various aspects of "Barbie's lives". The show opens today and will be on display until the 18th of September. The opening fits right in with the Paris Fashion Doll Festival opening this Friday. The curator  is Anne Monier, conservator at the  department of toys in the museum and the set designer is Nathalie Crinière, who also designed the incredible Le Petit Théâtre Dior exhibition in 2014.


Catwalk set up with Silkstone dolls, evoking both similar set ups from Barbie Collector photo sets and old couture runway shows in France.

The exhibition is geared towards children and adults alike: it showcases both the iconic toy that spans so many generations and also the historical and sociological context of the various incarnations of Barbie. I think a trip to Paris is needed pronto. Check out the gorgeous set ups of the exhibition.


The atmosphere of a private atelier showing is next to the catwalk space above


And the seamstresses of the atelier are also shown on their sewing machines - brilliant!


Modern style display - the flying catwalk


Another aspect of the modern display


Various aspects of Barbie and Ken's incarnations through the years


Glass domes showcasing collectible Barbies. I bet the girl wants to take them all home!


The wall of clothes showcases various Barbie outfits in doll size...


...while life-sized versions of them are also on display


The design process is also displayed in a very interesting way


The boxes that Barbies come in are also given their own space


A display showing the variety of molds, skin tones and hair styles and colours


The much sought after queen incarnations of Barbie - I'm surprised Empress Josephine is missing.


And something more plebeian - a table football with Barbies!


Exhibition photos courtesy of Getty Images

Saturday, October 11, 2014

Horst P. Horst tribute

I was lucky enough to visit London three times this year (twice working) after my first ever27 years ago. Among the things I was lucky to see in my last trip this September was an incredible exhibition in the V&A museum for the famous fashion (and not only) photographer Horst P. Horst. You can read about it here. I also made this image and uploaded in on my Instagram account in tribute and may do some more as well.


Evening In Montreal Victoire Roux

Saturday, August 2, 2014

Sybarites hit Los Angeles: Superdoll exhibition at FIDM Museum

It is no wonder that the amazing Sybarite dolls of multi-talented eccentric duo Desmond Lingard and Charles Fegen would find their way in a museum. Don't let your mind think of dusty old relics or sacred remains. Instead, the Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising Museum launched an exhibition of their much revered "White Chalk" Sybarites: the Spellbound collection.


The launch reception was on the 31st of July, and the designers were present to welcome everyone to admire their outstanding work. Admission is free throughout the exhibition, so if anyone is in Los Angeles, do not miss this. The Gothic setting and the amazing hand-made detailed outfits of the dolls shown is so enticing.


Some details about the show: the dates are July 31, 2014 till August 16, 2014, from 10am to5pm at the FIDM Museum, 919 S. Grand Ave, Los Angeles, CA 90015.(Ground Floor, Park Side) tel. 213.623.5821.


For those of you who have never heard of Superfrock and Sybarite dolls, some words from the website:
The Sybarite is a 16 inch resin artist-doll created by London artists Desmond Lingard and Charles Fegen in 2005. Sybarite dolls are fully articulated mannequin-like dolls and have appeared in several fashion trades (French Revue des Modes, Style.com, Women's Wear Daily). HauteDoll features Sybarites on the Covers of their magazines. The designers work under the "Superdoll" moniker and produce the dolls for a collector market. Previous to artist dolls, Fegen worked in the fashion industry as a clothing designer. Early dolls were handmade in London by Lingard and Fegen in their workshop. As the dolls went into the mainstream market, manufacturing moved to China. The dolls have 17 points of articulation, and have strung bodies similar to the Super Dollfie dolls from Japan. The Sybarite doll was introduced shortly after Asian ball-jointed dolls were gaining popularity, but differ in that they are high fashion mannequins versus the Asian ball-jointed dolls' anime inspired childlike quality.


Desmond Lingard giving an interview during the opening reception.

All photos courtesy of Superdoll London

Tuesday, June 24, 2014

The Wall Of Dolls unveiled in Milan during Men's Fashion Week


A Wall of Dolls. Just this one sentence makes a doll collector salivate with anticipation, like the Pavlovian dog of science. But this is not about doll collector fancy. This is a charity affair. "The Wall of Dolls" exhibit in Milan was unveiled during menswear fashion week to help spotlight increasing violence against women, as WWD reported.


“The Wall of Dolls” at the Cultural Center in Via de Amicis.

Fashion designers, celebrities, journalists and writers from Italy collaborated on this event. Fifty fashion designers, among them Missoni, Etro, Max Mara, Trussardi and Eva Cavalli are taking part with their own designed dolls. The beneficiary is human right association Intervita and other nonprofit organizations. The dolls are exhibited on a wall of the Cultural Center on Via de Amicis.


Antonio Marras' doll at “The Wall of Dolls” exhibit

Intervita was founded in Milan back in 1999. According to their mission statement, "Intervita is a non-profit non-governmental organization for development cooperation, recognized by the Italian Ministry of foreign affairs; we are independent, non-denominational and apolitical." "Intervita works in Italy, Asia, Africa and Latin America to support children, women and local communities in the fight against poverty and inequality and to promote sustainable development." "Intervita collaborates with a network of other civil-society organizations to give the most vulnerable people a voice on the Italian and international political agenda, and we are involved in the main networks protecting children's and women's rights."


The Eva Cavalli doll was made by the talented Magia 2000 doll studio

The principal creator of the event, Italian journalist Jo Squillo, said the decision to set up the wall during men’s fashion week was meant to raise awareness among men. The wall is to travel to other Italian and European cities. The initiative was included on the calendar of the Italian Chamber of Fashion with the patronage of the Milan municipality.


The Missoni doll with the obligatory multicoloured stripes

Best thing about the exhibit: everyone can add their own doll to the wall. I would love to see what people create and put on the wall, either simply to participate or for someone they know that has suffered from violence.


Etro's doll with their characteristic prints

All photos by Lele Sandrini for WWD.com

Sunday, June 8, 2014

Le Petit Théâtre Dior - Haute Couture in miniature

On the 31st of May, Dior unveiled the exhibition Le Petit Théâtre Dior in Chendgu, China (open until the 20th of June). It is the first stop of this travelling exhibition, inspired by Théâtre de la Mode, a 1945–1946 touring exhibit of fashion mannequins, approximately 1/3 the size of human scale, crafted by top Paris fashion designers. Now, for the house of Dior, twelve installations retrace the history of the House and present miniature versions of the Bar suit, the dresses Schuman, Muguet, Miss Dior and many more. Minutely sewn to the millimetre, they resemble the originals down to the tiniest detail. It's not just an exhibition that's heading off around the world, it's the Dior spirit that's travelling, too.


So why is Dior making these miniature dresses, crafted with full-scale precision? "In a time when everything is tending to the machine. Dior should be more like an artisanal laboratory than the ideal of a factory" Christian Dior wrote in his memoirs. Even before founding his own House, the couturier recognized that the noble professions exercised by the artisans were inseparable from Haute Couture.


Pale pink and white silk bustier ball dress worn by Jennifer Lawrence for the 2013 Academy Awards.
Haute Couture Spring-Summer 2013

At the time of the original Théâtre De La Mode exhibition, Christian Dior himself was working for Lucien Lelong, a venerable French fashion house and it is believed that he had a hand in making some of the original dresses. In the modern reinterpretation, even at only a third the size of the original model, each miniature dress in the Petit Théâtre Dior is produced with the master's exacting standards: based on a cotton toile in the purest Haute Couture tradition and with the same precision and rigour as the magical creations worn by Dior's clients.


J'Adore: Backless dress in nude-coloured silk chiffon, Belle Epoque gold necklace.
Special creation, 2011 for Dior perfume ad.

In couture ateliers time seems to stand still: embroidery is done by hand, as in the 18th century (and mostly in specialised small firms such as Lesage), miniature silk fabric flowers are made by hand, with delicate precision almost matching a neurosurgeon:.one can see them on the original Miss Dior dress, designed in 1949, as well as on the miniature version,made especially for this exhibition. To achieve this result, le petite main carries on as part of a long legacy; fabric petals are cut out by hand with a punch tool and the embossing is done with a period tool. Then both are fixed around a brass stalk to make the final flower.


The detail is so breathtaking that it seems the miniature dresses are even more exquisite and precious than their life-size counterparts. I wish I could have all of these made for my dolls and photograph them as couture models of this era. What a lovely assignment that would be.



White organza evening dress embroidered with “Pointillist” layered chiffon.
Haute Couture Autumn-Winter 2012.



Aventure: Black wool button-up skirt, black-and-white hound’s-tooth jacket with gored back.
Haute Couture Spring-Summer 1948, Envol line.


Opéra-Bouffe:  Short evening dress in candy-pink silk taffeta.
Haute Couture Autumn-Winter 1956, Aimant line


Schumann: White silk tulle ball gown trimmed in Valenciennes lace. Cascade of Dior roses at the back. Haute Couture Spring-Summer 1950, Verticale line.


Display at the exhibition - notice the oversize thimble and pin cushion contrasting the miniature dresses.






Saturday, March 22, 2014

Elusive Icons: Black Fashion Dolls 1968 – 2013

The Elusive Icons exhibition was a chronological visual illustration and comparison of Black fashion dolls over the past 46 years to the present. The collection of over 60 dolls showed the chronological progression of representation, from one doll to the multiple dolls with different skin tones and facial features presently available. In this exhibit an attempt to trace the development of a multi-dimensional representation and evolution of Blackness was made. The dolls exhibited were from doll collectors across Canada.



According to the exhibit's website, the collection created an opportunity to start a dialogue that empowers Black women. These discussions ranged from representations that many have never known or have ever seen before. Questions of race and identity are inherent in the collection of these Elusive Icons The exhibition was held in two other locations: School, Women’s Health in Women’s Hands- – a health centre catering to Black Women and Women of Colour, and the Brockton Collective gallery space, all during last February. The exhibit was very well received and was seen by over 500 people during its two-week installation. It is Frantz Brent Harris' hope that he will be able to install this exhibit in other cities.


The artistic vision is two-fold; a small part of Black History is exhibited - the progression of the representation of idealized female Black beauty by mainstream doll manufacturers. The dolls were displayed on a long zigzagged shaped platform, created to look like a miniature runway and were arranged chronologically by dates produced. Each doll stands upright, labeled with the name and release date of the doll. There was also a printed guide available to all, with additional history and significance of each doll. 


Additionally, Franz Brent Harris presented his own hand made dolls as his representations of feminine Black beauty. His sculpted dolls are a response to the current manufactured “icons” available which usually have an unrealistic and unhealthy body type. Black women possess a wider range of different beautiful body types, from slim and nubile to thick and voluptuous. However, most of the naturally occurring Black women bodies are not reflected in most fashion dolls. The dolls that he created possess an athletic body-type and project a healthy body image; this contrasts against the "anorexic" dolls produced by most manufacturers The dolls he has sculpted were placed on individual pedestals and dressed in haute couture designed by himself and project power and awareness.


Harris tells us about the reason for the exhibition: "Elusive Icons is about awareness. It is my hope that the audience viewing the exhibition will become more aware of their own beauty and relevance. A doll is an influential object; fashion dolls are the society’s representations idealized physical perfection. A Black fashion doll therefore becomes a very powerful form of validation, especially for black women and girls. This fact was evident from the comments I received from my two previous doll exhibits, most recently “The BLK Barbie project” mounted at B.A.N. D., Many of the Black women who viewed the shows had never seen a Black fashion doll, many were deeply affected by them. There is still the controversial issue surrounding the negative body image that most fashion dolls project on society. They are presented as unnatural ultra –skinny and large breasted body type".


"In response to this critique, to the absence of what I considered a normal healthy body type representation of a Black Woman, I created a doll that depicted just that. The dolls I have sculpted and created are my attempt to present a more realistic and healthy morphologies. It is my intention to represent the varied and beautiful body shapes of Black women. My vision is to represent and in some way validate the varied morphologies of Black women’s bodies. I am currently in the process of creating two additional bodies a slim healthy body and a very full-figured voluptuous body Presently, many representations of Blackness come from individuals who are not Black. I think it is of some significance that I am a Black artist presenting my interpretation of my own Blackness with these dolls which are loving portraits of my sisters and in part, myself. Black people have come very far, we make our presence and contribution to the Western world known. We are proud, our economic and political power has increased through the years. Observing how the representations of Black beauty, reflected in a fashion doll have also changed over the past 46 years is fascinating and illustrates our progress in a very simple manner. Recognizing our presence, the mainstream market has progressed from having only one Black fashion doll in 1967 produced by Mattel (Mattel is the maker of Barbie) to nine distinct Black facial sculpts by 2013, for that company alone, in addition to other companies, numerous other Black dolls presently are available".


Photo of first AA Francie from 1967 (courtesy of Fashion Doll Guide)

"The first Black fashion doll was merely a “white doll” colored brown, now doll makers are producing Black dolls that mirror our facial features and are targeting the Black consumer. The Black fashion doll is still a scarce commodity in Canada; a fact easily illustrated by my recent trip to Toy’R”Us and Wal-Mart where no Black fashion dolls were even on their shelves.’ Before sculpting my own doll I was collector of black fashion dolls for 3 years. During this time I sourced, purchased and gave as gifts over 75 black fashion dolls to school aged girls via friends and colleagues. Instinctively I sensed that a child having dolls, none of which had any resemblance to how she looked must be harmful in some way. I received a great amount of satisfaction doing this because the doll I gave as a gift was usually the first black doll they had ever received and became the child’s favorite doll. Always the parents of these children spoke their frustration of never being able to find black dolls. I think my belief in the importance of seeing and having black dolls is summed up in a quote below:
"Without dolls that accurately represent their own image, children end up looking up to white dolls, and seeing the white image as being powerful and what beauty is," says Phillip Jordan, author of a study on racial preferences among black children. "For children to have an image of self that is black and embraces your language and ethnic features is a very positive development." -The Guardian, Friday 5 October 2012
 One of the greatest Black leaders, Marcus Garvey understood this; in the 1920s the Jamaican pan-Africanist backed his African pride and self-empowerment movement with a factory line producing a black-skinned doll with African features."


I was not familiar with Frantz Brent- Harris' work at fashion doll. A commonn friend on Facebook posted the event and soon enough I was looking at some amazing dolls, all works of Mr. Harris, that are part of the exhibition. He is also a graphic designer, illustrator and sculptor. His line of 16" dolls is called Sonadolls and was created when a friend, upon seeing his doll collection, commented about the visible joints. Mr. Harris then proceeded in creating seamless jointed dolls.


Frantz Brent-Harris is Jamaican born Canadian Artist and Sculptor; his current focus is realistic figurative sculpture, fantasy surrealistic creatures and exquisite exotic art dolls. He has been practicing for over 20 years and his work has been exhibited in many galleries across in Ontario, these include Robert Langen Gallery (Wilfrid Laurier University), the BAND Gallery and the Canadian Sculpture Centre Gallery. Frantz Brent-Harris expresses complex and serious social and emotional subjects through his sculpture and simultaneous manages to seduce his viewer by creating a visually beautiful object of art. 


I was not familiar with Frantz Brent- Harris' work at fashion doll. A commonn friend on Facebook posted the event and soon enough I was looking at some amazing dolls, all works of Brent-Harris, that are part of the exhibition. He is also a graphic designer, illustrator and sculptor. His line of 16" dolls is called Sonadolls and was created when a friend, upon seeing his doll collection, commented about the visible joints. Brent-Harris then proceeded in creating seamless jointed dolls.


Since the dolls are all handcrafted by Brent-Harris, they come out in very limited editions. He designs and makes everything, from the doll and her wig, to the fashion and the accessories. The dolls have a very complex internal rod, spring and wire skeleton that took him 4 years to develop and perfect. The end result is a new invention, carefully designed to be break resistant and be a very flexible poseable doll.



His creative work with dolls began as a result of his need to find a resolution for his conflicted relationship with women, motherhood and femininity. Relating to and creating dolls allowed Brent-Harris to objectively observe women and provided him the insight he needed to embrace femininity as essential, beautiful and positive; thus, transforming his internal misogyny to appreciation and respect. This was a healing process for him and enabled him to fully own his own femininity. For this project Brent-Harris sculpted a 16” inch dolls to reflect a healthy athletic and respectful representation of black women’s bodies and outfitted them in fashions that represent his interpretation of the power and vulnerabilities of Black women.

 
Brent-Harris is currently in the process of creating two addition body types to more completely represent the different shapes present among black women It is his hope that viewing this exhibit will open the discussion on body image, sexuality, gender identity and vulnerability through a post-colonial identity.


All photos and information courtesy of Franz Brent-Harris

Tuesday, November 19, 2013

LE PARI(S) MERVEILLEUX! - If it's Paris, it's fashion - and dolls too!

For 11 years running, an incredible alchemy takes place, bringing together, around a common goal, the worlds of Fashion, Art and International Cooperation. This meeting between the greatest fashion designers, artists and renowned jewellers gave birth to a major event: the Frimousses Creators.


Lanvin par Alber Elbaz - Lot n°39 Edith la parisienne 

For the 11th edition of "Frimousses de Créateurs", artists and designers reveal "Pari(s) Merveilleux" with a pun in using the word Paris, that can be also translated as "The Bet (S) Wonderful!" (Pari=bet, stake). The 2013 UNICEF France event pays tribute to the city of light, the one that hosts art and fashion icons alike, which is Paris of course.


Christian Dior - Lot n°28 Isis

For over 10 years , Paris is the setting of "Frimousses de Créateurs ", another way of contributing to the education and mobilization of the public for children's rights and protection. This major event in Paris enables UNICEF to fund immunization. Each year, designers and artists support a generous bet"": vaccination of the children in Darfur. With their imagination and creativity, each designer offers his version of "Pari(s) Wonderful": magical, incredible, turbulent, surprisingly generous... Among them, Olivia Putman, Eric Bottero, Richard Orlinski, Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, Jerome Mesnager, Carlos Cruz-Diez and others, have agreed to join this solidarity action.


Chanel par Karl Lagerfeld - Lot n°14 La petite Coco

Globally known fashion Houses like Dior, Chanel, Vuitton, Gucci, Lanvin, but also independent designers like Jean Paul Gaultier, Alexis Mabille, Chantal Thomass, invest their talents to the cause. Artists from all over the world also contribute this year with an original work of art: -M- and Lisa Roze Ali Mahdavi, Lorenz Bäumer, Nicolas Saint Gregoire... 


Nicolas Saint Grégoire - Lot N°34 Eugénie

This year's exhibition will be held from November 26 to December 1 at the Petit Palais, a loyal partner of the event. The auction of these works, organized by Artcurial will be held on December 2 at 20:00 at the Four Seasons Hotel George V, a new partner of the event, and will be relayed through internet auctions Figaro.


Jean Paul Gaultier - Lot n°33 Yvette

If you go to the event's website, you can read more about each work of art (not all of them are dolls) and find out about the artist and the inspiration behind it. There is also an iOS app, a Facebook page and a Twitter profile. Warning: it's all in French.


Chantal Thomass - Lot n°11 Paris, c'est une brune